It is becoming increasingly difficult to make a mark in mountain climbing. The highest and most remote mountains on Earth have been reached for a long time, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less of a challenge for modern mountaineers. In reality it is far from that.
From the multiple peaks of Mount Everest to high-speed traverses across the towering spiers of Patagonia, there’s always a new accomplishment or new record waiting to happen.
Sports means different things to different people. It’s about style, independence, small groups, good lines, one push, and for some, doing it all without oxygen. Everywhere in the world there are hidden heroes pushing boundaries, but there are also legends taken far too soon by the sport they love.
Therefore, it is difficult to list the top climbers at this time, but here are some of the climbers with the most impressive or most famous achievements…
1 hour 6 minutes
tribute to failure
Four Swiss alpinists will attempt the first ascent of a new route on India’s 6,543 meter Shivling.
Fast forward to today, Hojak has conquered the Eiger more than 10 times, including one ascent in 2015 when he tied Ueli Steck for a new speed record of 3 hours and 46 minutes. Hojak is an avid speed climber, quickly climbing the mountains of his homeland such as the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, and descending them again by paragliding. He has also completed numerous expeditions across Asia and South America, including the grueling ascent of Pakistan’s K7 North Ridge. Patagonia’s Cerro Cachet.
Hojac was part of a team that attempted to climb Mount Shivling in India in 2021. The new film ‘Tribute to Failure’ depicts how that didn’t go as planned… Watch now in the player above.
Nirmal “Nims” Purja
to be born: 1983
“Attention and sponsorship from abroad is quickly flooded to foreign climbers, but Nepalis do not have such opportunities. I hope my climb will shine a spotlight on the talented mountaineers here. I am.”
Before that, he had achieved the same in Manaslu (8,163 meters), Broad Peak (8,051 meters) and Shishapangma (8,027 meters), earning him the Snow Leopard Award for climbing the five highest peaks of the former Soviet Union. ” has been awarded.
A Polish ski mountaineer set another record in 2023 by becoming the first person in history to climb all 8,000 meters of the Karakoram Mountains without oxygen and ski down them.
The speed climber has scaled 8,000m peaks 22 times in the past 20 years, but he’s not done exploring new routes, starting the new decade with the world’s 12th highest summit, Broad Peak. It begins with a winter challenge.
He is one of only eight mountaineers to reach the top of the world’s 8,000 meter mountains without supplemental oxygen, and has set countless new routes around the world, including the Himalayas, Tien Shan and Patagonia. .
Famous for discovering George Mallory’s body on Mount Everest in 1999, Anker has completed multiple first ascents of high mountains, including Meru, Vinson Massif, Urbetana, and El Capitan, and has climbed peaks from Alaska to Antarctica. .
He led the North Face climbing team for 26 years, survived an avalanche in 1999, and survived a heart attack while climbing Lunaguri in 2016. That year, he also received Climbing Magazine’s Golden Pitons Lifetime Achievement Award.
“[In life] The first 20 years are taken care of, the next 20 years are about defining what I’m going to do, the next 20 years are about what I’m going to do, the next 20 years are about what I’m going to do with what I’ve learned. “is. Want to turn that into something? ”
Haley specializes in high-speed ascents of technical routes, and has so far achieved his greatest feat on Patagonia’s towering spiers, having traveled to the region 16 times and traversed Torres del Paine twice. He achieved one in 24 hours with Alex Honnold.
He has also completed notable new routes in North America, particularly in Alaska, where he has set several record-breaking speed records in the region’s most impressive mountains.
“The mountains have always been my priority. Every year I feel like I’m growing as a climber and I think I’m becoming more dedicated and disciplined every year.”
to be born:1971
The first three meetings with Mick Fowler took place on the North Face of Signyan in China, on the Bow of Shiva in India, and at Gave Din in remote Nepal. His fourth ascent, with Nick Block, was the first ascent of a 7,000 meter peak in Tibet.
“As mountaineers, when we are at our most physically fit, we are at our least experienced, and vice versa. It’s a balancing act. To succeed on an unexplored 7,000 meter peak, you need a lot of experience. I think.”
Will Gadd explores the glacier
Climber Will Gadd and glacier hydrologist Jason Gulley investigate the water flowing beneath the glacier.
He single-handedly completed a day-climb of Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, and continues to explore new rock, ice, and alpine routes around the world.
These days, Will likes to set himself more creative challenges. “I’ve done enough, I’ve won as much as I need to,” he says. “I’m at a stage now where I feel like I have a lot less to prove.” All he wants to do now is apply what he’s learned to the most interesting places on Earth.
This legendary Sherpa is a record breaker in the Himalayas. He has climbed Mount Everest more than anyone else, in 2019 he climbed it 24 times, including twice in one week, and has also climbed K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Annapurna and Lhotse. Masu.
He was born in the same village as Tenzing Norgay and made his first ascent in 1994. Climbing is part of his family. His father was one of his first professional Sherpa guides, and his older brother has also climbed the mountain 17 times.
“I treat every climb with the same sincerity as the first one. Every time a client succeeds, it makes my day more enjoyable. I believe that record-breaking is just a byproduct.”
Jasper describes himself as an “extreme alpinist” and has progressed to the next level in his native Europe, Patagonia, the Himalayas and, most recently, Greenland, focusing on mixed terrain and ice, often climbing solo.
He first made headlines 30 years ago when he scaled the Alps’ three largest northern faces in record time. Since then, he has completed 17 different routes climbing the legendary Eiger.
“I practice different disciplines of alpinism, so I’m more like a decathlete. Climbing allows me to take a step towards my passion, adventure, while minimizing risk. You have to step out. That’s my philosophy.”
Moro is the only alpinist to have climbed four 8,000 meter peaks – Shishya Pangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbat – completely in winter. He is also an accomplished high-altitude helicopter pilot and wingsuit skydiver.
During his 16th winter expedition in 2019/20, he luckily escaped falling into a 0.5 meter wide bottomless crevasse while traversing Gasherbrum. Fortunately, he was rescued by his partner, Tamara Lunger, who was able to rope him in and save him.
“Impossible does not strictly exist as a limit. What was impossible a few years ago represents the limit of that time. Now it is not impossible, but the limit is even more. It’s getting higher…I dream higher.”
A master of high altitude, Viestrus is the only American to have climbed all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks. In fact, he is one of only four other mountaineers in the world (all Sherpas) to have climbed higher.
In addition to summiting the Himalayas, he has climbed Denali three times, summited volcanoes in Ecuador and Mexico seven times, climbed mountains in Antarctica and Russia, and climbed Mount Rainier more than 200 times.
“Really ‘pushing’ means climbing without oxygen with a relatively small team. But ultimately, most of us as mountaineers don’t really want to be listed as ‘the greatest’ or ‘the best’…”
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